Friday 31 January 2014

Day 14 - Australian Alps Walking Track


2am, still cold and the fire has died off.  I get it going again but I still feel really average.  I have a headache from dehydration!  It just goes to show that even when it is cold and raining you need to drink.  Especially when you are working as hard as I did yesterday.

6am comes around so quick.  Its decision time.  Do I stay or do I go?  Well anyone who knows me know the answer.  Regardless of how I feel, I AM GOING!






So the climb down and everything about today is pretty easy going.  I'm just dragging my feet as I know I don't have a lot of distance to cover.  The scenery in this area, the Mt Bogong area, is great.  I have been here in the winter only, having camped near Mt Bogong summit a couple years back.  This is a real eye feast.  Navigation is not necessary as its easy to follow the trail.  Even with going slow I am absolutely cooked by the time I get to the track junction to Cleve Cole Hut.  Its only about 1.5 kms off the main trail but I am just dying to get off my feet.



Stone facade of Cleve Cole Hut

The solar panels on the exterior are for the members area which gives this hut electricity as well as gas powered hot water.  Would love to be a member just about now.  



Love the stone work

Spent most of the afternoon walking between the hut and the toilets.  I tried to take care of myself as much as I could based on the supplies I had.  I also can now start accessing how much food I need to get to Mt Hotham.  Although some difficult climbs are ahead i know its an easy 2 days hiking.  So I ditch about 3 days worth of food late in the day.  My appetite is up and down so I try to eat and drink as much as possible when I feel okay.   

The best amenity this hut has is no doubt the mobile phone booster.  There is a cradle on the wall near the beds which fits smartphones.  Its connected to a booster antenna on the roof.  I spend about 2 hours on the phone this afternoon talking to family and a couple friends.  While I am leaning on the bunk beds I notice a couple healthy sized mice racing around the building!  Great!  I take a couple photos of the valley in front of me and recognise some of the landscapes from photos I saw when I was at Thredbo by Jochen Spencer.  Tonight I will snore, I am exhausted.







Wednesday 29 January 2014

Day 12 & 13 - Australian Alps Walking track

Just to give everyone some insight into how I prepare for these blog posts.  I first get my iphoto account open to the photos of the days I'm about to write about and open up John Chapman's Trail book to the appropriate maps.  I then ready my journal.  I just laughed myself silly ready todays journal entries.  Sometime sin my journal I would just write pearls of wisdom that have come to me throughout the day or week.  Todays journal pearl is such;

Just cause I don't know where I am doesn't mean I'm lost!







So this morning on Johnnies Top it is raining but at least the howling winds have calmed down.   The walk down off Johnnies Top is all 4X4 tracks which are easy to follow.  You then climb down to Morass Creek.  A series of river crossing which are a little challenging when the water level is up, it turns a couple of crossings into one marshy boggy water crossing.  Lovely the scenery through this area though with a great waterfall and overall great landscapes.







Once I have climbed back out you eventually come out at the Fraser Tablelands.  This is some of the most beautiful farmland I have ever seen.  Walking the roads around the tablelands isn't the most exciting but you can find plenty of little pearls to entertain your mind.  See below photo!






So its about 3:30pm when I arrive at the Mitta Mitta River, Taylor Crossing.  If the weather was warm I would have probably kept going but I am soaked through and its wet out so I am going to stay here and drink up, and eat through the masses of food I'm still carrying.  On arrival I meet Duncan, Merv and John, 3 retired friends who are doing the AAWT also but in the opposite direct.  I will note also that this represents the 1/2 way for both groups.  The North bound group are on day 21 where as Me, myself and I are travelling south and this is day 12.  

This also is the first opportunity I have had on the trail for someone to take a photo of me, no selfies tonight!  



Face starting to thin out and the beard is starting to show

Whilst the sun tried to shine though for most of the afternoon it could stop the hourly 15minutes of rain that would stop any drying progress that was achieved.  The fence in the background of the above photo had all the clothes draped across it.  It would rain and we would all scatter to get the gear out of the rain, and then repeat....all afternoon.  I had about 2 litres of water since arriving at camp and had 2 dinners as well as plenty of snack.  

I also decided to attend to my feet as we had a fire which meant I could burn the old smelly strapping.  I noticed that my right foot large toes had started to harden up behind the broken toes nail.  In the past I could just cut the toe nail and the dry fluid and be all good, this time was different.  I set up my first aid gear on the concrete floor of the toilet block during one of the rain showers.  I cut the toes nail....... SPLAT.  The fluid behind the nail had not hardened so instead it blows up all over the toilet block.  i can see behind my toe nail, its just empty space.  I take out my medical scissors and can place then behind the nail it is such a large gap.  I am definitely going to lose this toe nail.  I taped it in place for now and completed the rest of the dressings and then went to bed as I was a little freaked out in general at the condition of my foot.  The toes issue as well as the general smell of the rotting skin on the bottom of my foot.

                                       

Day 13 - This morning I set out as usual at about 6am hoping to get some good km's in.  I really wanted to do a massive day as the guilt of stopping at 3:30pm was getting to me again.  I was lucky, I was able to pack up my gear before it started to rain heavily.  None the less all my clothes, both what I am wearing and whats in my bag are wet or at least damp.


                                        



One of the really big problems with walking by yourself is that if my eyes miss it there isn't some one else's pair to catch it.  So I am pretty stead in my bush walking pace at about 4.5 - 5kms per hour.  So the problem when I hit a road is that I just put my head down a move.  I really don't want to walk these roads, their is no adventure in them.  Of course the road pace is faster, so this morning as with a couple other times through out the whole trek I decide to walk about 3kms past my turn off junction!  I kick myself as I already feel I am behind because I stopped yesterday pretty early.  





As far as the junction goes, its an intersection of Four Mile Creek Track and Eight Mile loop track so a pretty large intersection.  Even when I have realised my error and doubled back, I still cannot find the trail.  i have a little walk down Kelly's Track for the optional junction point but can't find that one either.  So back to the main intersection....after looking high and low for an entry point into the scrub I just crack it and bash my way into the bush.  About 5 metres into the scrub is a perfectly manicured trail to follow.  It was just the entry that had overgrown.  So I follow Eight Mile Loop track along the ridge and then down to Gill creek.  This was all pretty manageable with no surprises.



Gill Creek crossing

So once I have crossed Gill Creek all I can think about is that at the top of this long climb in Omeo Highway and my next food drop.  Its still raining and miserable out and its about 4:30pm when i reach the Omeo highway.  I'm sure it has dropped 5 degrees in the last hour.  As you can see I'm stoked to reach the road and the drop.  I am soaked, I only have jocks and undershirt on under my rain gear.  I just don't want to stop to throw more damp clothes on so I just get to the drop and rip it open.




Its starting rain pretty heavy as I open the drums containing my food drop so again I just pull out the black garbage bag liner and shove it in the pack, top up my fuel and water and as I do so a 4X4 comes down the Mt Willis track where I'm about to hike up.  He asks if I'm okay.  I thought i gotta get his attention with my answer so he gives me a chop out here.  My answer " yeah just getting my food out of the ground!" That was enough to get him out of the truck.  We spoke about the AAWT and not only did Peter give me a ride about 3kms up to the track junction be he took my buckets as well.  What was priceless was his local knowledge about the general Sunnyside area.  As we drove he pointed out historical stuff like the cricket oval.  I was so cold that as I was talking with him my voice was shaking and my teeth were trying to chatter.  So I hop out at the junction, take a photo for the blog so I can give credit and grab my pack off the back of the truck. 






OH NO!  Can't believe it.  I rushed around so much to not hold Peter up that I forgot my walking poles at the food drop.  Peter then turn into a knight in shining armour and drives the truck back down and lets me grab my poles, then drives me back up again!  Legend.

So freezing cold I climb up to Mt Willis over the next hour or so in freezing conditions and rain.  I none the less took a second to get a couple summit shots. And let me tell you how happy I am to finally see Mt Willis hut.




Mt Willis hut



So I get inside and i'm absolutely shattered.  usually in the huts the last person to have stayed would leave some dry timber for the next group.  There was no timber for the fire inside this hut.  I can tell you I looked up who was the last to sign the hut log book....... I won't say who it was as I know them.  So for 45 minutes I sat in wet clothes in a freezing cold hut trying to dry out fire wood that I had to source from outside in the rain.  I burnt the pages out of John Chapman's book, letters from home pages out of my journal.  It took everything I had to get this thing started.  Finally I did and was able to set up a series of clothes lines across the room to dry all my gear out.  

I took no photos tonight, it was all business.

I definitely considered this hut stay an emergency.  I ate well as I had way more food than I needed once again.  Also in this bucket were new letters from the family so by the time I was jumping into bed I was feeling pretty encouraged by my family, but I was feeling pretty ill.   The cold and the massive effort to get here has really taken a notch out of me.  Tomorrow is going to also be a relatively short day if I decide to proceed as I would only go to  Cleve Cole hut which is about 12kms.  At this stage, I think I am going to have to take a rest day.  Not feeling good.











Sunday 26 January 2014

2013 Achieved itinerary - Australian Alps Walking Track

So prior to departing had posted the schedule of what we had hoped to achieve.  We used schedules provided online by others who had previously done the end to end journey as a guide and just modified things a little to our expectations.

In the end this became a Solo mission and the end result was this below itinerary;

start Finish Kms
Day 1 Namadgi Sawpit Creek 32kms
Day 2 Sawpit Creek Bill Jones Hut 29kms
Day 3 Bill Jones Hut Witzes Hut 33kms
Day 4 Witzes Hut Happys Hut 33kms
Day 5 Happys Hut Grey Mare Hut 39kms
Day 6 Grey Mare Hut Mt Tate 24kms
Day 7 Mt Tate Thredbo YHA 22kms
Day 8 REST DAY REST DAY 0kms
Day 9 Thredbo YHA Cowombat flat 46kms
Day 10 Cowombat flat Smoke Oh Creek 24kms
Day 11 Smoke Oh Creek Johnnies Top 35kms
Day 12 Johnnies Top Taylors Crossing 24kms
Day 13 Taylors Crossing Mt Willis Hut 26kms
Day 14 Mt Willis Hut Cleve Cole Hut 18kms
Day 15 Cleve Cole Hut Dibbins Hut 40kms
Day 16 Dibbins Hut Mt Hotham Store 9kms
Day 17 REST DAY REST DAY 0kms
Day 18 Mt Hotham Store Mt Selwyn Rd 33kms
Day 19 Mt Selwyn Rd Catherine Saddle 28kms
Day 20 Catherine Saddle Vallejo Gunther Hut 12kms
Day 21 Vallejo Gunther Hut Barkly River East 28kms
Day 22 Barkly River East Rumpff Saddle 28kms
Day 23 Rumpff Saddle Black River 15kms
Day 24 Black River Jordan River 35kms
Day 25 Jordan River Stronachs Camp 12kms
Day 26 Stronachs Camp Talbot Hut Site 21kms
Day 27 Talbot Hut Site O'sheas Mill 12kms
Day 28 O'sheas Mill Walhalla 13kms


I also want to mention that I was not racing to do the hike as fast as I could, rather I was just out enjoying myself.  As I was Solo I was able to hike when i wanted to hike and chill out when i wanted to chill out.  I don't like chilling out!  The last 6 - 7 days were lighter days kms wise as I was slowing down so I could meet my Wife at Mt Erica car park at noon on the wednesday.  This was the only suitable time for us to meet.  Massive thank you again to Tim for driving Megan out there and then the next day driving out again, bringing my kids with him.

Friday 24 January 2014

Days 11 - Australian Alps Walking Track

I have awoken this morning full of gratitude.

Anyone who takes on a long distance through hike will know they will be journeying through all types of weather conditions.  The Australian Alps at any time of the year can serve up 4 seasons in a day.  Although I am prepared for all weather conditions it doesn't necessarily mean I am willingly looking for bad weather.  For the past 2 nights, I have set up camp, prepared and eaten dinner, washed up and planned for the next day before preparing to sleep.  Just as I close my eyes for the night, the rain comes down!

I am grateful that it is raining once I no longer need to be outdoors!

Last night marks a momentous occasion for me as well.  Never in my life have I pee'd in a bottle, till this night.  I wasn't going to go out in the rain so I thought to myself I can always just use one of my 2 water bottles from this point in my trip as a night time urinal.  Worked a treat once I worked out how to position myself in the tent so as not to spill!  I'd then just leave it out side the tent in the rain to keep it clean.

I became very lazy with this process as my travels continued.  It no longer needed to be raining out for me to use the indoor urinal bottle!  I never left my tent in the middle of the night for the rest of the Australian Alps Walking track.



The Smoke Oh Camp area is just the path widening enough for the tent



So about 8am I left Smoke Oh Creek with the hope of making either Beunba Flats or maybe even Johnnies Top.  So whats this falling from the sky about an hour into the day but my first snow storm.  It was really enjoyable actually despite the name of the trail being "Misery Trail"!  Was really nice to see the snow falling through the trees.

Having made my way out to Buckwong track and had a morning snack under the porch roof of Buckwong Hut.  Shortly after I came across 1 of 17 groups from Melbourne Grammar hiking through the area.  I had a brief chat with them and then continued on my way as I knew within hours I would have my next food drop.  Unfortunately the snow has now turned to rain so by the time I trek down Mt Hope Road to my food drop I am drenched.  I pull the buckets out of the hole they are in, everything now just mud and pull out the black garbage bag with my food in it.  I quickly look through Tims bucket to see if he has anything I want to swap in, grab a fresh pair of Tim jocks and his socks ( I didn't have any in this drop as I was doing fresh gear every other drop) and then just kept moving.  This was probably the heaviest I have been on the hike so far as I know I have way too much food with me even if I were on my slower schedule.

So being heavy and wet and muddy I hussled my way along to the Buenba Flats expecting to probably call it an afternoon.  It was about 4:30pm when I made it to the second gate and sat down with another ground from Melbourne Grammar.  A couple of the guides shared some fresh strawberries and a recent Herald Sun newspaper with me.  Chris was one of the guides, he was very interested in Hyperlite Mountain Gear and we chatted for about 20minutes about Cuben fibre and the stuff I was using.  He mentioned that this station set up for them was for the students to do a solo overnight sleep out and that they were scattered all over the general ridge line.  I thought cool, but also I should probably keep moving and try to make Johnnies Top.


Looking West towards corner creek


I set out towards the western end, corner creek end of the flats.  This whole area was a marshy wetland that was difficult to follow at times as the trail is interrupted my the creek so often.  That being said as you can clearly make out that the mountains around you are guiding you into a corner it is more a matter of how easy the trail could be if you were on it.  Its never really a matter of being lost.

Having made it to the the junction where the trail now climbs It is now about 6pm when I start climbing.  Its actually pretty steep and my pack if fully loaded so i am finding it hard going.  The fact that I had stumbled into the creek a couple times so my boots were bogged, including being rained on all day I was cranky and tired.  It took me ages to climb Johnnies Top.  I had to get my head torch out for the last 20 minutes coming into Johnnies as it had gotten dark earlier in this weather.  Worked really well actually as all the AAWT or Great Alpine Walk signs are all traced in some hi-visibility reflectors so the shone in the torch light.



I took photos later in the evening when the fog was really thick and rainy but its just a blur shot...you can't really make much out...but this is about an hour before I made camp.

At 8:15pm when I got to camp it was blowing an absolute storm.  I barely made out the water tank when I walking about 5m in front of it.  I was freeing cold because of how long I had been wet....all day and really struggled to get my tent set up.  Was again really happy with my Echo II from Hyperlite Mountain gear as the first part of the shelter to go up is the outer tarp.  This enables me to get all my gear out of the rain and blowing winds and protect all my items that I need for the night but want to keep dry....my thermals, sleeping bag etc.

So by the time I had set up camp, took off all my wet gear at the entry including the wet medical supplies taped to my feet, it was 9pm.  I took my time to get dressed into warm dry gear and re-do the medical treatments on my feet.  Although I was wasted from a long wet day, I still struggled to get to sleep.   It was so wet foggy and blowing an absolute storm outside that my exhausted brain was a little freaked.  I kept going through check lists.  Have I kept my wets away from my dry's, have I pegged the tent really well, am I positioned away from possible falling trees, am I on too much of a slope, I know I am pitched right on the trail to stay away from trees but it is an old 4x4 track....what if an emergency vehicle needs to get through in the middle of the night....and so on and so forth.  Eventually fell asleep to thoughts of my wife and kids.


Saturday 18 January 2014

Australian Alps Walking Track - Day 9 and 10

Back to the bush! Having spoken with Hayden and Dave the night before I was full of energy this morning.  They had mentioned that they didn't think they would see me again and had expected me to be much further down the track by now.  To be honest, parts of me agreed.

I woke at 5am having had a great sleep.  Seriously, the beds at the YHA Thredbo are so comfortable.  My pack was easier to organised this morning as I have posted about 1.2kg of gear ( my broken Katadyn Water Filter, my hiking shorts that were way too big by now, spare batteries and my book lamp).  I left the YHA about 6am and walked along the roadside to the start of the trail start ( Cascade Trail)


Thredbo River


Having had the day off yesterday I felt like really pushing some pace.  I none the less wanted to stop in at the huts along the way to sign the logbooks and to check them out in general.  So I just put my head down and with the excitement of heading back into the wilderness just hiked.  Before I knew it I came across another hiker walking in the same direction....I ran him down to chat for a while.  HIs name was Matt and we had crossed on the other side of Kosciuszko a couple days ago.  He is one of the leaders of the school group I had passed.  He said they were camping at Cascade hut and were going onto Tin mine hut.  I said he must be wrong as we were yet get to Cascade Hut!   He informed me I passed it about 3km's ago!  So that means I was walking at about 9km an hour.  Although I was disappointed about missing the hut I was pretty excited that I had put in the km's.  I started pushing harder and harder.  I stopped by Tin Mine Hut on the way past and had a snack.





The whole day I came across brumbies and a couple deer.  Also came across a couple groups of hikers who all wished me well.  So I came into Cowombat Flat about 4:30pm and set up camp.  So for those that know and those that don't know the trail, Cowombat flat is 42 kms from the trail head of Cascade trail and the YHA at Thredbo is about 4km of road walking from there so in a 10.5hr day I totalled 46km's.  This was my biggest km day of the entire journey.  Of course I had to take the customary photo of crossing the MurrayRiver before having dinner and going to bed.  



Hard to take a selfie crossing the Murray, was a little wider than the photos I had seen,


So Day 10 was really enjoyable for me personally.  Being really pleased with the progress of yesterday I just really enjoyed myself today.  I came across a wild cat that took off pretty quick as soon as it realised we were walking the same stretch.  I was also really surprised with the Brumbies today, they were all really short!  They weren't babies like I had seen in the bunches of Brumbies on previous days but rather stalky mature horses!  Really strange.  There was 1 black brumby that took like an hour to work out that if he walking on the trail, eventually I would catch up to him again.

I really enjoyed the Limestone Creek area. It reminded me of the mountains I grew up hiking in Vermont, USA with my family.  I just got swept away in enjoyment today.  I decided to make camp early today - Smoko Creek at about 3:30pm.  The next camp was a good climb and 12kms away.  It gave me a chance to dump 3 days worth of food and take some time to eat some extra meals and hot chocolates.  Because I am travelling much faster than my itinerary I am constantly carrying more food than I actually need.  Strange how throwing away food really makes you feel accomplished.  I had packed that food because I thought I'd need it, then to not need it was really motivating.

Did I mention it was raining all day!  Not heavy so no big deal.  First sign of bad weather so far on my AAWT adventure.







Saturday 4 January 2014

Day 7 & 8 - Australian Alps Walking Track





What a morning.  Having awoken with the sun on the summit of Mt Tate with the knowledge that today I would reach Thredbo Ski Village and have a shower and a fresh made meal, I was jumping out of my skin to get moving.  The views are amazing this morning.  I really felt like I was in a very special part of the Australian wilderness.


Typical trail conditions near Mt Tate

I'm finding really difficult to write about day 7 as the whole day was so scenic and wonderful.  I think I might just put a whole bunch of photos up with captions and leave story telling out of this post.


Typical views for today

The Sentinal just over my right shoulder tough to get a selfie with the Peak!


Snow peaks


Views To Mt Kosciuszko 

Mt Kosciuszko - Highest Peak in Australia

This young lady brought a pet Kangaroo up the mountain 6.5km boardwalk trek from Thredbo



Having climbed up and down Mt kosciuszko with the groups of tourists I made my way down to the chairlift and had a fresh chicken wrap and coke at Black Bettys Cafe on the mountain.  I spoke with a couple of people about what I was doing and most were more impressed with my wife allowing me to go away for  month whilst she stayed home and cared for our 3 children.  I then took the chairlift down to Thredbo village and made my way to the Thredbo YHA. https://www.facebook.com/ThredboYHA

The YHA were storing my food drop as well so on so many levels I was excited to be there.  My right foot was now a bloody and blistered stump.  I hobbled around organising myself to do my laundry and have a shower.  With both organised I then had a pleasant surprise.  When Tim and I had dropped our food drop to the YHA a month earlier they mentioned we were the second group of the year to leave a drop with them.  Jochen Spencer was walking south to north and we expected we would cross his path at some point.  With both Jochen and myself ahead of our own schedules we ended up sharing a room at the YHA.  I had not met Jochen before but when he walked into the YHA I knew straight away it was him.  At first he probably thought I worked there as I helped him get his pack to the ground and addressed him by name.  Jochen is a great photographer and I encourage everyone to checkout his site http://www.atraxarta.com.au/


Jochen and I spent the next day exchanging track notes and ideas and had a couple good meals together.  In relation to the YHA facilities, really great.  Good size rooms, great common areas to relax and recover and a massive share kitchen.  To be honest I think the first night I may have insulted Jochen, I ended up not sleeping in our room.  Travelling around a lot through life you end up being a couch connoisseur and let me tell you its been years since I slept on such a comfortable couch.  Top notch.  I awake the next morning with about 18 other guest eating breakfast just across from me.  They were good sports!  




TEAM THREDBO YHA

I had missed the pharmacy on day 1 at Thredbo so early the next morning I headed down to the pharmacy.  The lovely lady advised me on my injuries and sold me $121 worth of medical supplies and told me to take 3-4 days off.  I took 1 extra night off and then kept going.  This meant I got to have a second pub meal at the local.  The next day I was full of energy and I believe it was from 2 pub meals 2 nighst in a row.  While having my meal I came across David and Hayden from night 3, we trade our stories briefly.  I could see that they were disappointed to see me, they expected me to be well on my way to Hotham by now.  The next day I made up for it!



One of the feet blisters...blister on a blister on a blister!