The Next Chapter and the Next Generation

 I'm surprised I still know the login!  Here we are 7 years after my last post, and 8.5 years since I completed my End2End north to south journey along the Australian Alps Walking Track.

So what has prompted the post.  This guy!

I first heard of the AAWT around the same time that my son was born.  That means for his entire life he has known of an epic trail; the Australian Alps Walking Track (AAWT).  In 2015 as a 6 year old he got a taste of what the trail had to offer when we did the Omeo Highway to Mt Hotham section.  

A couple months ago he came to me and said "I'm ready to go".  So we are going.  I always had personal ambitions of going again and going faster.  Now I'm going back for a completely different reason.

I just want to spend time with my son.  

So whats next? We plan on returning, again and again!

It feels good to have the full hike diarised online now.  Its a great companion to my personal journal from the trail and the memories I'll have forever.  So where to from here?  I'm the type of person that loves to have a challenge or goal in front of them.  Since returning from the AAWT I've completed 2 of 4 years of University and have found new employment (casual which studying).  It has been a challenger to keep fitness levels during the school year as the time balance is just not that easy when you have a young family.

I look back at my time on the trail and how I went about hiking it.  I did not set out to go fast.  I set out to be light and have fun.  As per most, I thought I was light till I got to Thredbo and sent more gear home..... whereby actually becoming light.  I often find myself wondering if I could go faster if I had planned to do so.  Carry less food as I will be out there for fewer days between food drops.  Carry less clothes and less fuel, shave grams of comforts like a 20g clothes line and just sleep under a the tarp portion of my tent without the internal tent.  Of course hitting it removes the tent completely!

On the other hand, my now 10 year old daughter Bailey promised she would do the Australian Alps Walking Track with me as soon as I felt she was old enough.  This is a different challenge to prepare for.  At what age could she do it?  What could she carry...at that age?  What additional plans would need to be made?  The more I think about it the more exciting I get for her at the possibility of being able to see all that I have seen, to create her own special memories.  To create those memories with me her Father.  This could be a real coming of age event for her and my other children.  When they get to the appropriate age I can take them 1 by 1 to end to end the AAWT.  Even better I wonder if the whole family will do it together.  Just asked my wife Megan......she said "No shower = No Megan"!  I'll work on a shower solution!

Back to whats next.  We often have done the Mt Lofty Summit hike in Adelaide on a nice Sunday afternoon.  No packs, all bitumen trail.  Bailey loves it (Judd and Andie also).  So lets take Bailey and Judd for a test on the AAWT I thought.  November 28th, 2015 I was able to return with my children to the AAWT to do Section 4 - refer to John Chapman's book.  November 28, 2013 was the day I completed my journey in Walhalla so it was really special to be on the trail with my kids 2 years later.

The Omeo Highway to Mt Hotham section, with a side trip up to Mt Bogong seemed a great first choice to introduce the kids to the track.  It has climbs and descents, bushbashing, fire tracks, roads, and some great huts.  We organised with Sandy at the Omeo Caravan Park to drive Tim's car to the trail head to drop us off then keep it to collect us if we missed the Friday bus off Mt Hotham.  Forgot to mention that Tim Marsden will also be joining us! The kids quickly and affectionately named Tim our 'snake bait' as he was out front...and within 10 minutes had located our first snake of the trail! The hike did not go as planned as Judd twisted his ankle and it blew up like a balloon.  We is a strong quiet kid so when he was screaming to touch his toes to the ground we knew we had to change our plans.

We evacuated over Mt Bogong and out to Mountain Creek over 2 days, successfully hitchhiked from mountain Creek to Mt Beauty and subsequently over Falls Creek to the rad access near Cope Hut.  We planned to rest but the surprising arrival of snow had lifted Judd's spirits and before you know it we were knocking out the 14kms to Dibbins hut in just 3.5hrs.  Although we didn't stay on the AAWT the entire trek, and I had to carry Judd on my shoulders (Tim also), this trip was perfect.  We rolled with what each day gave us and had a blast.  Some real memories for us all.

I've made a small video summarising our adventure.

On the return train ride back to Adelaide from Melbourne I asked the kids what they learned and what their favourite part of the hike was, both responded that the best part was the 2 hours of playing n the snow.  This was at 5:30am!  I asked Judd what he learned.  His response was epic for a 6 year old.  " Dad, If I give you everything I've got, you'll give me everything you've got" .... what a kid.

Mount Erica Carpark Day 27 (part 2) to O'Shea's Mill and onto Walhalla. (Day 28)

Having been reduced to 87kg's I was pretty excited to see that Tim & Megan had brought some favourite foods for me; chocolate milk, pastries and a great idea I hadn't thought of....Sushi!

I inhale anything in front of me not only because it is fresh and new but because I have been starving for 2 days now.  We chatted at Mt Erica carpark for about an hour while we set up Megan's gear/pack.  In hindsight it was probably bad form on my part.  Here Tim has just driven from Melbourne to Walhalla (almost) to drop my wife off for me, he only chats with us for an hour then has to do the drive back.  Sorry buddy, should have paid you a little more props and hung out for a while longer.

Megan and I set off down the Mt Erica Road from the carpark towards where the trail re-enters the trees.  Its sunny, with a light breeze and I'm off to finish my adventure with the woman I do all my adventuring with; great day.

So far on this adventure I have only seen 3 snakes.  In the 4.6km from the road to O'Shea's Mill we see 3 more!  Good thing I'm out front to scare them away with my odour.  As we walk down to O'Shea's to camp for the night I am able to recount so many stories to Megan, filling her in on the outcomes I have identified thus far on the hike and comparing them to my expected outcomes.

Probably the biggest topic however is how bad I stink and the number of bugs/flies around.  I thought it was just me attracting the bugs, but in all reality there have been crazy bugs most of the way along the trail since Red Jacket.

Megan arriving at O'Shea's Mill Camp site

The photo above was about 3 minutes before Megan realised she had a leech in her sock and I had to burn if off!  Hehehehehehe....welcome they are saying!  We started a fire to get rid of the bugs and settled in on the abnormally tall picnic table to cook up some dinner.  The difficult part about O'Shea's Mill is that you are surrounded by massive trees and the whole site despite being grassed in on a fairly aggressive angle.  It is strange how these things bother me not that Megan is here.  Mount Tait was worse but I didn't care. Now I find myself trying to make Megan comfortable.....I think it is because I want her to see how awesome this all has been and join me next time!  So I'm running around a bit trying to make it seem perfect and awesome.  But really these bugs are hard to ignore an we are both sick of them.  We climb into the tent about 5:30pm and just chat.  I reminisce about camp here with Dad 3 yrs ago during the massive storm, thinking these trees are gonna come down!  I can't remember when we fell asleep but I know we both slept well.

The next morning, November 28 2015 is the day I will finish.  We head off about 7pm as we are not sure of the pace we will be doing and Tim, Tanya and their kids will be meeting us at 11am in Walhalla with our 3 little kids in tow.  Looking forward to seeing them.  I should remember to thank Tim for driving back down again!  2 trip to Walhalla in 2 days!  What a guy.

The trail out of O'Shea's to Thomson Valley Road crossing is as I remember it, not overgrown but rather grassy to the vegetation is constantly rubbing against you.  This morning is dry so its nothing but I remember climbing out in the rain last time and it just bogged you down into the trail.  Its a straight feeling walking together.  I'm not sure if we should be pushing to pace or slowing down and I find myself constantly concerned with Megan's comfort levels.  I continue to tell stories as we cross the Thomson Valley Road and start the endless descent to Poverty Point.  

The old 4x4 track is well cleared but very steep.  We slide down a couple times but enjoy the scenery and the Thomson River and surrounding mountains.

Rock Table along Thomson River cliff side

We decide to take our time as we believe we are making good time and there is no exact guarantee that Tim and Tanya haven't hit traffic or something and may be late.  I can vouch for the boredom involved in waiting at a road side for people to arrive in the middle of an adventure; yesterday at Mt Erica was so long.  We read the information signage around poverty point and marvel at the engineering and ingenuity of the men that would have built the bridge, take a couple happy snaps and continue towards Walhalla.  I feel like I should have Megan's photos on here but there have been few chances where other people have been able to take photos of me.....I'm kind of hogging the sense at the moment.

Alright........I'll chuck one in!

Although I remember the trail fairly well as we have done this with the kids as day hikes a number of times, I am pretty underwhelmed and the landscape.  With bush fires having burnt through the area a number of years back, the old burnt trees have been removed and a large amount of excavator works to the mountain side.  Its pretty baron compared to its former glory and I'm finding it difficult to be excited at seeing it.  

I think every blog about the Australian Alps Walking Track has a shot of Walhalla that looks about the same as this one..... it's the best place to take the shot so I'll add mine to the collection.

By this stage we are within 1km from Walhalla and I can't help myself.  I'm hiking my fast pace then having to wait for Meegs to catch up.  I can't believe I am here and can't wait to get to Walhalla and claim my End to End'er status.  As we come into Walhalla we can see and hear Tim and Tanya and all the kids playing in the park.  Tim has heard us Ewwing and Ahhing about seeing the kids and rapidly ushers them down the road to the rotunda.  I race own the steps and the kids come ring out of the rotunda.  Daddy's back.

What an experience.  To be here is surreal.  having never done a long distance hike before, my eyes must be the size of 2 cantaloupe.  We catch up briefly in the rotunda before heading into the Cafe to claim my certificate.  I heard they hand out and End to End certificate for this completing the AAWT.  The Cafe informs me that the guys at the Walhalla Star Hotel take care of these types of things.  I cross over and make my introduction.  They do not hand out certificates but what they do give you is an original blue Australian Alps trail marker.  Even cooler.

This is the end...............................................What a magical mountain range................................what a magical experience to have been out of the world for 28 days....................................who gets to spend 28 days with their thoughts.............................the places I have been, so exciting .......................... I am so grateful for the fun and adventure.

So whats next............................

Day 27 - Mt Talbot Hut Site to Mt Erica Car park Part 1

So this morning starts was too early.  Its 6:30am when I wake but I just lay there till about 7:30am as I know that it will be much worse to be standing around for an hour or more at Mt Erica Car park while I wait for Megan & Tim to arrive.  Mt Erica car park is only 4km away which is less than an hour so I have a lot of time to fill between now and 12noon.

I start with a little housekeeping.  Making sure all my gear is folded nicely and packed well. I have almost no food left so the pack looks more like a saggy old sock than the high-end ultra light pack that has gotten me across 700km of mountainous ranges.   I move onto cleaning up my tent of the bits and pieces that gather inside before restoring some of the wood supplies stored in the old chimney relic. 

Great place to camp as a family.

It is just after 8am and I am out of things to do here, so I figure more new scenery will have to pass the time.  I walk as slow as I can along the trail, taking some time to have a look around at Mushroom Rocks.

Mushroom rocks, AAWT trail.

This morning is filled with pure gratitude to everyone who has supported me in achieving this goal.   There have been large contributors as mentioned previously like my wife and kids, as well as Tim.  But there are more people that have helped me get here, the guys that motivated me to ride, run or climb every week.  Marcus Bourne, the ultimate personal trainer, who made me work harder and harder to find the bottom of my physical and emotional well.  The countless friends and family who asked how preparations were going, asked why I was doing it, and encouraged my aspirations. 

Then there is another group.  These people stood out from the previously mentioned group of supporters; they are the group of people that out of friendship, concern, or just pure disbelief, brought all the obstacles to me.  They highlighted the pitfalls that would keep me from succeeding.  They helped me prepare more than they probably realized.  In bringing these concerns or obstacles to my consciousness I was able to plan for them.  Seasoned hikers that struggle to go out for more than 7 days, who articulated that it was going to be mentally heavy.  They identified that I was going to have to be mentally prepared.  Friends who were concerned about what I was eating highlighted the need to test and test and test everything I was going to eat and how I was going to store the food drops.  Every pondering question was placed on an internal mental checklist of obstacles I needed to prepare for.

I’ve arrived now at Mt. Erica car park and of course its not even 10am, so there seems to be at a minimum a 2hr wait.  It is odd, I haven't taken any photos of my arrival here......only an odd video of the signage at the car park!  I get some fresh water, use the facilities and generally just enjoy a really beautiful sunny morning.  I try to sleep on the park bench for a while but the excitement that I am going to see my wife for the first time in 28 days, since getting on the bus October 31^st in Melbourne to overnight it to Canberra, is keeping me awake. 

Then I hear a car driving up really slow.  I spring to my feet and start walking out into the centre of the circular dead end of the car park.   It is only once I see the faces of the 2 occupants as they creep past me to park that it dawns on me that not only is this not Tim and Megan….but it is not a car I even recognize!  I am so keen to see them that I absolutely ignore all mental processing of the situation and just purely gravitate toward the vehicle in an overwhelming display.  Once they park and exit their vehicle I decide I should introduce myself and explain why a weirdo in the scrub has just tried to enter their vehicle via the windscreen.  They sat with me for about 15 minutes to hear my story.  They were very polite, only ignoring hiding their disgust for my odor occasionally.  They went for their picnic walk and returned within 45 minutes.  I was still the weird smelly guy who apparently was waiting for his wife and friends.  To be honest, I bet if I could locate this couple they would confirm that they thought I was lost and mentally unstable.

I know the time is coming…….do I walk down the road?  Will it be better for Megan to walk less today?  I should video the event!  I set up the camera on the picnic table a run a couple test shots.  All ready to roll.  The time comes of course and I double hit the button and completely miss the chance to record their arrival. 

Here we are.  I am safe.  My wife can stop worrying.  No more stories from Tim about where I am.  Here I am.

Day 26 Stronach to Mt Talbot Hut Site

Oh welcome morning! Someone please light a firecracker off in that sun so it will hurry up and radiate some heat already.  Last night was cold.  I know what my countrymen in Canada are thinking right now, “Australia, cold! No way”.  After 15 years I have clearly become acclimatized, and last night I felt every degree.  Tricks used to get warm,

• ·         Zip up the sleeping bag to point where only nose exposed,
• ·        Put on Kathmandu jumper I’ve been using as a pillow,
• ·       Place tomorrow’s clothes are the bottom of the sleeping bag to reduce zipper draft,
• ·       Wear toque,
• ·       Spoon…..no one and nothing!

As I make my way out of my tent and ready myself for the day, I sense a real day ahead.  With 22 kms to cover to Mt Talbots Hut site.  This felt like a more respectable day compared to the past couple of meanders through the woods. 

Trail start from Stronach camp site.

Having not experienced this part of the trail before I was really taken by the scenery.  It reminded me of the childhood hikes we took as a family to Vermont in the U.S.  A great tree density and a little soggy under foot, you always feel like there is a little adventure just around the bend. 

Paul Barkla had warned me that this area had been flooded and the evidence was still visible.  The majority of the day was walked not on a trail but rather in a slow draining creek, where the trail once was.  It was sunny and warm so there was very little to drain the spirits.  

As I near the end of my journey I find myself already becoming more civilized.  I am worrying about responsibilities, finances, and my family more and more as the trail comes to an end.  Being alone for 20 odd days really allowed me to disconnect from the real world, a time to focus on a singular event.  I highly recommend it to anyone who needs a moment of solitude.  In hindsight I found it reinvigorating.  

Another civilized aspect I start to concern myself with is phone reception.  I am almost out of fuel and food.  If Megan expects to eat in the 16hrs we will be together in the bush she better get Tim to bring both.  Periodically today I get the old blackberry out and check for reception but it is not till I reach the Mt Baw Baw Alpine Village junction that I am able to get through and secure a number of extra treats as well.

Junction markers

Not long after, I cross paths with Ed.  An older gentlemen that has just walked in for some fitness from the Mt St Gwinear car park.  He explains that he comes through the area every so often to stay healthy and clear his head.  Wise man!  I tell him of my travels and we share a couple stories before wishing each other a good day and parting ways.  As we started to depart I thought, “wonder if he has any food?”  Unfortunately Ed had only packed himself as traditional serving of a cheese sandwich.  No luck this time.

Knowing I am now only 7 kms from the days resting place I find myself splashing through the creek bogged trail.  Jumping around corners and performing the odd Air Jordan symbol launch of rocky obstructions.  Once again I am reminder of my time on the Appalachian Trail in Vermont with my siblings and cousins.  Our parents telling to slow down as we launch off rocks, running down hill through loose pick up sticks and soil.  I find myself thinking I should have played down the entire AAWT, would have been a blast. 

 

Random photo of the trail, great day!

I am nonetheless disturbed with the various camping spots I pass.  There seems to have been a new hiking and camping manual distributed that I was not aware of which reads “Please, if you use this place make sure to leave as much food rappers and beverage containers as you can possible dispose of.  This will ensure you are the last person to enjoy this place!”  It was a real sign of how close to “civilization” I was.  Strange, I feel like as the dirty smelly hiker I am actually being more civilized then civilization. 

With these locations behind me it doesn’t take long to come past this great timber foot bridge with a gushing creek passing below.  I follow the creek down to Mt Talbot Hut site in the glowing warmth of an afternoon sun.  What a place.  Surrounded by large boulders, the remaining chimney stands proud as the centerpiece of the clearing. 

I set up camp, have a rationed snack, and begin to create a to do list whilst I have this warm sunny day.  There are 2 things that become the focal point of my afternoon, washing the laundry and improving my hygiene in general.  I fill up my portable collapsible kitchen sink and wedge it between two boulder crevasses.  Wedged there I set about washing every piece of clothing I have in my pack and on my being.  It takes 7 or 8 refills to get it all done and in the end, my 2m length of guy line is no match for the quantity of clothing requiring drying.  I lay all of the quick dry material garments on the large rocky boulders facing the sun and let the thicker garments hold place on the line.

My attention turns to my personal hygiene.  I know I stink and can only imagine how Megan is going to respond to the odour.  I remember back to Thredbo YHA when Jochen or myself would open our room door.  Our gear had such a stink it was hard for us to even hide our offense.  I am attached to that aroma a thereby know that I would only be worse now.

Knowing how much Megan has supported this adventure, I don’t want to ruin our reunion with my stink.  The following is not news to any one who has hiked.  So my wording relating to it being something developed is clearly misguided and a sign of how exhausted I am.  Although I don’t feel exhausted.  Also, the thumbnail may show that there is some skin in this video.  If you are friends with me on facebook, you've seen it before!  Viewer discretion is advise.........

Having cleaned up and got some food in, I settle down early tonight because frankly there is nothing else to do!  Its felt good to get some housekeeping done and tomorrow I will see Megan for the first time in 27 days (we have never been apart in 13 years for more than 4 or 5 days).  I will also see Tim again.  Man he has so made this happen for me.  What a guy.  If I ever decide to do this again I’ll have to get him to be my home based again!  Just playing bud…….hope we can share the experience next time.  I hope I can sleep in tomorrow as there is only 4.2 kms to do before the 12noon meeting time.  I may have been patient along the trail, but when I get to that car park I am going to be pretty keen for some human contact.

An extra little video showing the water source at Mt Talbot hut site.

DAY 25 - Australian Alps Walking Track

I have woken up this morning regretting some of the weeks decisions.  I could be done by now, I could have gone harder.  I could have less rest days.

Oz4adventure T-shirts - My Birthday gift from Tim.

It doesn't take me long however to recognise that this whole trek wasn't all about me.  It was also about the people who supported me.  My wife, who I am now waiting for and Tim who even now is my support.  Visiting me at Hotham, keeping Megan updated, bringing Megan to the trail now and then my kids on the last day.  So sure I could have done it faster and been done now, but I wouldn't have enjoyed time with Tim at Hotham, and I wouldn't have the chance to walk the last day with my wife.

Leaving Namadgi 25 days ago with Tim.

Faster definitely would not have been better!

Thomson River, camped beside the river last night.

So day 25 starts with a cold river crossing of the Thompson River.  I left my hiking boots off this morning as I knew straight away I'd be getting wet.  Having never been here before I am uncertain whether this current is standard or more aggressive then normal, but it is not an easy crossing.  I would not have attempted it without walking poles thats for sure.  Once crossed I get dressed for the day.  It is raining lightly this morning and I found last night to be much colder than even the nights on the peaks near Kosciuszko, so am bundled up.

Its not far along the Thomson Jordan Divide Road that I come past Easton Dam.  It dawns on me that this place is like the cities we all live in.  We are the water, plentiful and free.  But we surround ourselves with boundaries which inevitably funnel us down a pre-determined route.  It is only once every so often that a branch falls in and diverts us down a new course, a new adventure.  

Easton Dam

I return to my adventure once more; to the tree lined scrub of the trail.  It’s not long before I cross paths with Paul Barkla.  Paul is on his 3^rd day of his end-to-end adventure and fills me in on the flooding that occurring 3 weeks back, which prevented his original start date from happening.  It was a really surreal experience to meet Paul as one of the first things he told me was that he had been following my progress online through my Spot tracker interface.  That was really cool to know that another adventure seeker was watching my adventure as a prelude to his own.

Paul Barkla

Paul has a great story to tell as well.  Paul had been in a car accident 7 years prior, which had damaged his spine.  Through out his rehabilitation he was encouraged to set a goal that he would achieve once he was mobile again.  The AAWT was his goal. Amazing.  Having stood in the rain for about 15 minutes we wished each other all the best and continued on.  I hope Paul is reading, I'd like to hear from you.  

The balance of the day was uneventful, just a relaxing stroll really.  Passing the standard trail historical markers I find myself feeling like I am on a tourist trail now, and less of an adventurer.

On arrival at Stronach Camp I immediately try to determine the best water source.  I have plenty of time in the day so I wander around for a couple hours believing I can find a better source than the brown pond scum located near camp.  Having succumb to my thirst, I brushed the top scum aside and filled up.

I set up camp by the old trail junction and boiled my water.  It’s about 4pm and I’ve eaten dinner and a snack but find myself starving.  Being out here required me to be so focused, so alert.  Now with the hike concluding in relatively short walks, it seems like my body wants for massive quantities of food.   Its also getting really cold.  Much colder than any other night I’ve had on the entire journey.  I rug up in my sleeping bag with my thermals on and continue to boil up water.  All I can do is lay here and feel my stomach aching.  I can feel my insides eating away at my insides!  I am going nuts.  I count my food in order to verify how much I can really eat tonight without leaving myself in strife between now and meeting up with Megan and Tim.  I have a second round of soup and mountain breads, a Cadel Evans energy bar and a pack of oatmeal.  It’s like it was all just air.  I could eat my own hand I’m so hungry.

Starvation cell! I mean 'Home'

 

I fall asleep eventually but wake again at about 9am in gut wrenching agony from starvation.  I had made an error prior to Rumpff Saddle.  Expecting to have a fresh stick of german mettwurst in my Rumpff Saddle food drop, I chucked out about 150 grams of meat after lunch to avoid carrying the weight.  Turns out there was not a new stick at Rumpffs Saddle and I an now left meatless.   I think this is playing a major part on my daily hunger factor.  This is a real lesson learned to keep your food equally spread across each drop.  You may not remember variations to your buckets when you are out there. 

I suffer through the pain by eating a dry packet of oatmeal.  As this has turned out to be the coldest night in my hike I don’t feel like getting the stove out and opening the front of the tent.  Raw oatmeal is not that bad really.  It would have been worse if it didn’t have all the sugar and fruits in the mix.

In 2 more days I will meet up with Megan and we will finish this adventure together.  I have time on my side so my mind starts to identify shortcomings in our plans to walk the last 11km’s or so together.  The main point that I feel Megan will be concerned about is that I really stink.  All my stuff stinks.  I mean seriously, even in this freezing weather I can smell the nasty aroma of hard work.  Hopefully tomorrow will bring an opportunity to wash up!

Day 24 - Australian Alps Walking Track

It's 1:36am and I am still just laying here not sleeping.  I know I have drifted off a couple times for what seems like minutes.  I am restless and wired.  With the light day today I think that my body is now unable to turn off.  It just hasn't used the energy up that it has become used to burning off in a day.  On the other hand I know that my mind is tired.

There are plenty of people out there that would say that the effort so far has been an alright effort but nothing super athletic or amazing.  I agree.  I probably agree more now that I have been home for 7 months.  Although I trained hard for this for 2 years, I then didn't train at all for the year before my departure.  So for me, at the time, I was deep in the well and pushing hard.  Now I only wish I had trained for that year prior to my departure and had made a faster journey.

My mind is tired.  I swear i just heard my phone ring.  I check it even though I took the battery out earlier today.  Hep, the battery hasn't magically found its way back into the phone!  I hope it isn't one of those things where its a sign I should call home cause something bad has happened.  I finally get to sleep.

Morning has come November 24th.  My routine is flawless now.  I'm calm.  Today will be light and uneventful.  I leave my boots off this morning and just chuck on my water crossing shoes.  Instead of zig zagging across Black River, I  decide to walk straight down the middle.  Before the trail had been cleared this was the best way to get along the river, so why not add my name to the list of those that have walked the leach infested Black River.

As I leave the river the sun is shining through the trees.  With all the moisture around from yesterdays showers, the humidity makes trudging out of Black River a real drain.  Its all 4x4 trails really so its not that exciting no matter how I look at it.  Tim & I never took this route in the past as it was closed with tree fall.

Now I'm sure plenty of people would tell you that I often must hear crickets in my head, as there must not be a lot going on between my ears; this morning I would have to agree with them.  I am at piece with what I've done and what I'm doing.  I really am just wandering, thinking of very little.

As I get to Champion Spur junction I see an unfamiliar looking branch on the road.  On closer inspection I discover that it is in fact a Samba deer antler.  I'm not a hunter and don't enjoy guns, so finding an animal trophy to take home is pretty cool for me.  I strap it off to the pack and keep on going.



In the distance I am sure I can hear engines.  At times they are to my right, then my left, its like they are invisible and driving around me.  The trail through this area is better than 4x4 trails.  I would consider them pour quality country roads.  As I pass Mt Singleton there are a couple off-road track to my right with fresh tire tracks.  I'm thinking today is Sunday although I really haven't be keeping track of the days.  Sure enough, 1,2,3..... they just keep coming.  In groups of 2 and 3 I count about 15 or more serious off road 4x4's.  Not one of them even come close to stopping to see if I'm alright.  Thats cool.  As I near Fiddler Green I see a massive Aussie Disposals flag and these off-roaders that had shot passed me all parked of the side.  I have a chat to them and find it's an off-road orienteering course.....no wonder they didn't stop.  they are being timed.  Scored another free soda!

Apparently they changed out the axle on this 67 Willy Jeep the night before to stay in the race!

The walk along these wet and lonely roads is some of the more boring hours I have hiked.  As I leave the road and head down Victor Spur track I stop and have a feed in the rain.  I cooked up some hot soup, using the gate as a table to hold all my cooking gear.  I follow Victor Spur track to the AAWT trail entry.  I am excited to get amongst the trees again but lose the trail within 100m of leaving the road.    Once I get on track again the trail becomes really easy to follow with almost too many trail markers.  When you arrive beside a marker, you can almost always see the next marker off ahead.

The hike down to red jacket is wet but I enjoy the knowledge that I am just around from red jacket and will soon make camp, a fire and change into dry clothes.

3 years ago this cemetery sign would have been shorter than the scrub

Red Jacket has had a lot of clearing done and I am amazed that the scrub where Tim and I camped near last time through the area is in fact located directly opposite the cemetery.  Parks Victoria have done a great job to restore this area.  I am disappointed to see the no camping sign at Red Jacket and decide to press onto Blue Jacket even though I remember Allan Gamble telling me that Blue Jacket is bug infested.  I now realise that Red Jacket would have been fine to stay at as Parks Victoria allows AAWT hikers to stay.

Had to do it!

I set up camp and read the historical boards installed at Blue Jacket.  The bugs are crazy.  I haven't seen this may bugs ever.  I am losing my mind.  I am getting really pissed off with all the bugs so I decide to just pack up and keep moving.  Within 100m of leaving Blue Jacket the bugs are gone!  What is up with that place.  I follow Violet town track to Casper Creek track.  Holy!  Now that is a climb.  Photos can't describe how long and consistently steep this track is.

What you see here is probably 1/10th of the incline, there had to be 10 false summits!

 It is now about 5pm and I am tired.  The humidity of the whole day has really been draining and I had turned down my mental armour so this climb hits me like a tonne of bricks.  This whole section is ugly.  It has been cleared and turned over by large machinery.  The trail is not really that easy to follow and I take a couple wrong turns which really piss me off at this time in the evening.  None the less I make make camp at the bottom of Mt Little Easton, just beside the Thomson River.  The bugs here are as bad as Blue Jacket but I can't go any more.  Its about 8:30pm when I clean up my dinner bowl and get to bed.  I last photo first.

What do my eyes say? After 24 days!

Day 23 - Australian Alps Walking Track

Why do I feel like rabbits feet for breakfast?  Is it because all night what sounds like hundreds of the critters are running around my tent like I am some sacrificial meat they are hoping to roast up!

Well that is my Alice in Wonderland imaginary mind frame this morning.  I am relaxed.  Rumpff Saddle feels like the finish line.  I have done 1/2 of the rest of the journey with Tim and know what to expect, know that it has been trail cleared and that the balance is going to be a cake walk.

I sleep in.  Why not.  Last night I checked the maps again and was confounded when I realised I am way ahead of schedule to meet Megan on Wednesday at noon.  Ah, you never know when weather may set in and I might need to camp in for the day.

So I head off, not via the Barkly Jeep Track but via Middle Ridge Rd.  I remember the awesome little water falls along the road that had the best/fresh water I had drank since hiking in Vermont as a teenager.  Although I am really tired of 4x4 track walking the water stops are worth it.  I actually fill up twice along Middle Ridge Rd as it is so nice and I would rather grab it here than in, as I think it was either Nigel Christmas or Craig Doubleday described it " Black River - the leak infested hell hole".

As I reach Jamieson-Licola Rd I come across a 4x4 racing down the road with 3 wild dogs out in front. They stop and make sure they aren't mine before handing me a soda and continuing the chase.

Entry to AAWT off Jamison-Licola Rd 

The track junction back onto the AAWT is fairly messy but cut back.  Having heard that the trail was cleared 18months ago my thoughts are that this will be a breeze.  Its not bad but the amount of tree fall across the trail, sometimes at critical points is pretty challenging.  Again i manage to go off trail on my way to Mt Shillinglaw as a massive tree has block the trail sufficient for me to not notice it is a junction.  I do not see the AAWT but rather an unmarked trail heading more northwest than I should have liked.  I walk for about an hour racing along with confidence at my heals knowing that by noon I will be at Black River and have the rest of the day off.  I soon realise that I am not on a summit or a saddle but in a valley which was not part of today plans.  I demoralised once again begin the return journey to find where I have gone wrong.  An hour of climbing a fairly aggressive slope I find my hidden tree junction and return on my way along the AAWT.  Only for it to pound with rain!  Punishment I figure for relaxing before the finish line.

Down to Black River

I find it entertaining now to be hiking from Mt Shillinglaw to the south turning junction which is meant to be marked by a cairn.  All the memories of Tim and I getting lost flood back to me.  The pure joy we felt when we saw the pink paint markers identifying where the trail was to be cleared.  The painful trudge through dense brush, unable to move forward without pushing small trees and scrub out of our way.  I am glad this time around is so much different. Although I still have not seen the cairn!

Making my way down to Black River I start contemplating pressing forward and just sleeping at Mt Erica car park for a couple nights while I wait for Megan.  As I arrive at Black River I am so excited to see the massive tree across the river which marks the first of many river crossings.  AAWT is now carved into the steps in the trunk.  I get my camera out and take a happy snap while standing on the log across the river.  I clip it back onto my pack and move forward when ...... I slip!

I am about 3m above the river which is only about 400mm deep at this section.  All I could do was drop my walking poles and drop to the log like a cat.  Lucky I haven't fallen in I am clinging to the log for dear life.  Unable to stand up I have to crotch shuffle across to the other side.  I dropped my pack and put on my river crossing shoes, jump in a start chasing my poles down river.  I walk about 500mm down stream and I only find 1!  As I walk back I find the second only about 30m from the log but it is caught up and jammed under some trees.

Home for tonight

Lucky to be back on trail without losing anything or injuring myself I decide that my mishap is a sign to just take it easy this afternoon.  Maybe I am more tired than I realise or comprehend.

Corn, Quinoa and soup mix for dinner with mountain bread.

I set up tent in the river bend where Tim and I had done last night.  I sleep, I eat, I wash my clothes and make a fire on the N15 Track to try to dry out my clothes.  It rains for an hour so I have to pull everything in, then its sunny so I stoke the fire and hang it all out.  this happens every hour for the rest of the afternoon.  2 leaches meet their end.  I have plenty of time to assess myself and make some more funny home videos.  I won't put them all up but here is a good one.

I also decided to get some up to date toe photos, had to rip the nail off as it was kind of just hanging there.

During surgery

After surgery